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This issue has haunted every oval or roma-style tomato I've ever tried to grow here in CA … I know it's due to failure to upload calcium from the soil due to soil/watering problems, so I dug in saved ground eggshells and a spoonful of Epsom salts for every tomato and bell pepper I transplanted this year. So far I'm not having end rot on the peppers, just darned sunburn …. HOT is so frustrating on many levels! 
However, my first Health Kick determinate hybrid (looked interesting, why not?!), although not a true roma, is struggling. There was a flash of blossom end rot on their pear shapes despite careful watering with the first 100+ weather last month, but subsequent tomatoes have looked good. I have yet to have any tomato ripen on the loaded plant, but have picked every butt-tinged tomato I find to relieve the plant asap. I even had one end rot show up on a Goliath heirloom, but no surprises on that plant since then and they are ripening now. Darn it, the bigger the Health tomatoes get, the more butt-tinged I'm finding … doesn't help that it's the only plant with hornworm evidence. Poor baby!
Basically, any words of wisdom from the tomato veterans would be lovely. Last question: gardening neighbor down the street recoiled in mild horror when I mentioned that I was going to turn the picked green tomatoes into chutney once I carved off the effected bad spots (I hate waste!). Is there any reason NOT to use the green tomato if you pluck 'em early and cut off the end rot tushies? Is the tomato any different that when bruises on peaches or other fruit is cut off before chopping for jam? Thank you!!![]()
1:39 pm
November 20, 2009
OfflineIt can be so hard to keep plants from stress as most of it is weather related. I don't know of any home made fix for this problem, but there is a product called Bonide Rot-Stop, round here you can buy a pint of concentrate for about $8.(That amount does us a couple of years or more). After you mix it up you spray it directly on the plant leaves either early in the morning or evening, but only under stress conditions. It contains 9.2% calcium from calcium chloride. It works for us, we were almost flooded out twice in two weeks then it turned off hot and dry I noticed the rot starting and sprayed and we seem to be doing O.K. now. Like always you have to read the label carefully it is not for regular use, to do so may cause leaf burn. Hope you find a solution as it is heart breaking to lose your tomatoes.
4:38 pm
May 2, 2010
OfflineBlossom End Rot occurs in the tomato when it is deficent in calcium in that fruit. The reason can be a lack of calcium in the soil, a lack of magnesium (aids in the calcium transport mechanism or variations in soil moisture – no water no way to transport the calcium.
Paste type tomatoes are most pronce to BER followed by beefsteak types.
Possible solutions –
1. when planting the plant add calcium in the form of crushed eggshells or lime. I like to add a bit of agricultural lime in the planting hole
2. add magnesium to the soil at planting time – I do this by mixing a teaspoon of epsom salts with the soil.
3. minimize fluctuations in soil moisture – I do this mostly by adding a thick layer of mulch after the plant is established and watering if conditions get really dry.
I've never been able to completely eliminate BER but by using these steps I can greatly reduce the effect.
tractor57 said:
And I always trim off the BER ends and use the rest of the tomato. BER is not a disease rather a response to conditions.
Aha! pretty much where my thinking was but it's good to verify it from someone who's been there longer than I … and thank you! tractor57, for the BER tips.
With the exception of the lime (adding that to my list to check for next spring) I already did the whole range with the eggshells, epsom salts (uh-oh, may have put down too much of that) and the mulch cover. Then again, it's been a really strange growing year with a cool, wet spring that put the tomatoes and peppers behind and puny in size. I'm going to focus on being grateful that I have 2 other large tomato plants that don't appear to have any issues other than catching up in size. I'd near despaired that our single Brandywine would ever set and keep a fruit, but not as many are falling off as last month. Finally!
Joyce, thank you for the tip on the calcium spray … I did find another brand for our area and will give that literally a shot as a supplement. Can't hurt. Maybe it'll be just the push needed to keep this one bush from being strictly a chutney production this year. ![]()
I had an awful problem with this last year. This year I have been fertilizing with Miracle Gro tomato food once a week and haven't had any problems with it. Of course, I have my plants in pots, so the nutrients get washed out of the soil faster than if they were in the ground, but I have found that weekly fertilizing works for me.
9:34 pm
July 29, 2009
OfflineI know several people who recommend dissolving epsom salts in your watering water on a fairly regular (every other watering, or monthly) basis (though this advice comes from those who garden in containers, so in-ground gardeners, YMMV).
Thank you for all the input! … if I'd had any idea that BER was this typical, particularly with our CA valley heat, I wouldn't likely have become so frazzled over the years with the larger, heavier tomatoes. Veggie gardeners close to me are basically fumbling along with about as much adeptness as I! It'll now simply become SOP each year to make sure all the tomatoes and peppers have their roots happy with ample nutritive prevention … and then be ready to lose a few early fruits with the first heat wave!
With the latest high heat …. another 103 predicted for today, hoping the surprise breeze will mitigate that … I'm now covering the tomatoes and peppers with sheets during the afternoon to help ease sunburn. My peppers ain't so happy now as they're lookin' a tetch crisped!
Now if I could just convince the
dog from filching the ripe tomatoes from the vine I think I'd finally be gaining a grip on the full range of pests!
3:42 pm
February 3, 2010
OfflineIt is tomato time, again and time for all the problems that entails. My first little green tomatoes have appeared in my global buckets and I am looking to keep blossom end rot away. We have had a particularly wet spring and I imagine all nutrients have been leached out of my planting soil. I see people have recommended Epsom salts, but I'd have no idea of how much to use. How much to a gallon of water would you suggest? Dumping a gallon of water down the tube seems to work much easier for me that hauling out the hose.
I also remember my mom soaking eggshells in water to water her house plants. The water was supposed to leach the nutrients out of the shells. My dad hated it 'cause the whole house smelled of sulfur when those shells had sat a couple of days, but Mom always had beautiful house plants. Since the problem with BER is lacking calcium, would eggshell water work instead of Epsom salts or wouldn't it be strong enough? Does anyone have any experience with this? If you are worried about DH being stinky-d out of the house, like Dad was, I promise I'll keep them on the back porch. LOL
I usually work a little epsom salt into the soil when I plant peppers, but haven't really used it much for other plants. You can also put 2 tbsp in a gallon of water and water it in (keep it off the leaves.)
For blossom end rot, I try to prevent it by working a couple tbsp of bone meal into the hole when I plant each tomato. If I find out after the fact that they're getting blossom end rot (usually on the first few tomatoes set) I will pull back the mulch and gently scratch some bone meal and dry powdered milk into soil, taking care not to disturb the root system, then put the mulch back in place. You can also mix up about one cup of dry milk into a gallon of water and apply it that way. This you can get on the leaves, no problem.
2:45 pm
October 10, 2009
OfflineI have always planted tomatoes with the epsom salts/egg shells but am wondering about pouring whey around them occasionally. I have more whey than room to save it and thought I could utlize it in this way. I'll give it a try and let you all know the out come. 
7:10 pm
December 27, 2008
OfflineTUMS !! It's a quick and easily absorbed form of calcium. i put one tablet in each hole when planting the seedlings into the garden. I was told this by a long time tomato gardener and have done it this year. No BER of any kind and I grow a lot of varieties. I also added old sheep manure and a little lime.
The BER was so bad last year I hardly got any tomatoes at all.
This advice isn't for this year, but if you're having persistent problems with BER, get a soil test done, and specifically sample your tomato growing area, or in fall (which is best), take your soil samples from the area where your tomatoes will be grown next year. Sometimes it's not so much the lack of calcium, as a low ratio of calcium to other nutrients such as nitrogen or potassium. We grow 400-600 tomato plants a year to sell at the farmer's market, and the balance in nutrients is much more important than just calcium. We also use epsom salts to mitigate BER, but make sure our nitrogen and potassium are adequate also.
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